Background design by Emilie Cacace for Andéol
As models glided down the catwalk to David Bowie “Lady Grinning Soul” in crystal-studded jumpsuits and gold metallic suits for Balmain’s Fall 2011 showing, the influence of seventies glam rock was far from subtle. But no rhinestone-spangled story can be told without reference to fashion’s pioneer of the ‘too much is never enough’ philosophy, rumoured to have been the first person to sew these little gems onto cloth… Nudie Cohn.
Balmain, Fall 2011/12
A classic tale of the American Dream variety, Nudie emigrated from Kiev, Russia, making his pilgrimage to the west coast from Brooklyn, New York. Having landed in Los Angeles, Nudie’s career in fashion began by making rhinestone-encrusted g-strings for showgirls and strippers, eventually expanding his showbiz horizons tailoring unique cowboy costumes embellished with rhinestone tokens of meaningless selection; marijuana leaves, poppies, roses, crosses, hearts, lightening bolts and naked women. In the late 1950s the tides began to rise when Nudie was commissioned to design a custom suit for Elvis Presley. His gold lamé creation became one of the most famous Elvis looks–a flickering of the bejeweled, Viva Las Vegas Elvis that was to come. The suit was worn on the cover of his 1959 album ‘50,000,000 Elvis Fans Can’t Be Wrong’ and from there the likes of Tony Curtis, ZZ top, John Lennon, Gram Parsons, Cher, Elton John and John Wayne followed. In 1963 the famous Nudie’s Rodeo Tailors opened in North Hollywood, where it remained in business until 1994, ten years after Nudie’s death.
Nudie Cohn with one of his famous custom Pontiac (image from New York Times)
Elvis in his Nudie Cohn gold lamé suit
Nudie Cohn and 70s country/rock star Gram Parsons from The Flying Burrito Brothers; image TSY
Nudie had unleashed the glitz and chintz–a trend that could only have been born of Tinseltown–pioneering a subculture of conspicuous luxury (of undoubtedly dubious taste). However, any concerns of tastelessness were quickly crushed when David Bowie, the face of androgynous glam rock, set rhinestone-adorned apparel in stone, as his alter ego Ziggy Stardust. As British journalist and men’s fashion critic Mark Simpson explains; “It may have been Oscar Wilde who prefigured glam rock and David Bowie who personified it–but it was indubitably Nudie Cohn, the Jewish tailor émigré from Kiev, Russia, who stitched, seamed and patterned it.”
Wild west glitter glamour has seen a particular resurgence as of late. Standout razzle-dazzle pieces from the Fall 2011 collections: Vivienne Westwood’s gold brocade leggings and glitter-covered runway and Stella McCartney’s gold Mylar-print pantsuit. Isabel Marant created her own brand of wild west with Navajo prints, mixed cowboy denim, fringed boots and luxe suede mini dresses. But Miu Miu’s Spring 2011 collection seems to be the precursor of Tinseltown revival, with the Hollywood-inspired collection, which Miuccia Prada explained to style.com was an exploration of “everybody’s obsession with being famous”, featuring star print pleat dresses and the boxy western-style metallic leather jackets adorned with leather lotus flower appliqués, a favourite on the editorial circuit.
Liu Wen by Mark Segal for Vogue China May 2011; styled by Tabitha Simmons; left Liu Wen wears Miu Miu lotus leather jacket; right Liu Wen perched on a custom Nudie Pontiac; images from fashiongonerogue.com
90s Cindy Crawford for Vogue
Daria Werbowy for Vogue Paris February 2011; images from fashiongonerogue.com
Sasha Pivovarova for Interview March 2011
Amber and Thomas made their own imprint on fashion’s recent take on cowboy glamour at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week 2011, with suede fringing and a hint of sparkle.
Images from fashionising.com
